IFSC Climbing World Championships explained

Above:IFSC Climbing World Championships
Bodyclass:hlist nowraplinks
Headerstyle:border-top: 1px solid #aaa
Header1:Seasons
Data2:
Header3:Disciplines
Data4:
  • Lead
  • Bouldering
  • Speed
  • Combined
Header5:Most gold medals
Data6: Janja Garnbret (8)

The IFSC Climbing World Championships are the biennial (i.e. held once every two years) world championship event for competition climbing that is organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in the three disciplines of competition climbing: competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing. Since 2012, a combined ranking is also determined, for climbers competing in all disciplines, and additional medals are awarded based on that ranking. The first event was organized in Frankfurt in 1991.

History

Creation and organizers

In 1991, the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) organized the competition climbing championships. The International Council for Competition Climbing (ICC) was created in 1997 as an internal body of the UIAA to take charge of competition climbing.[1]

In 2007, the independent IFSC was created as a continuation of the ICC to govern competition climbing.

Events

The present format has four disciplines: lead, speed, bouldering, and combined.

The first championships had two events: lead and speed. Bouldering was added in 2001.

In 2012, 2014 and 2016, a combined ranking (sometimes also called overall ranking) was computed for climbers participating in all of the three events. In 2018, a specific combined event was included which the six climbers with highest overall ranking[2] [3] were invited to enter. The combined event requires athletes to compete in all three disciplines, and they receive a single combined score based on all three results. Scores achieved in single-discipline events are not relevant to the combined score, and there are no awards for any one part of the combined event. The 2018 combined event tested the new Olympic Games format, which was used at the first appearance of climbing at the Olympics in 2020. In 2019 the Combined competition was held again with the best eight men's and women's athletes receiving invitations to the 2020 Olympics.

In 2011, the IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships were established. The event is usually held alongside the open class competition. Para athletes compete in lead only, except for 2011 when a speed climbing competition was held as well.

Years

The World Championships are held every two years. Twice, the cycle has been moved to the other year and in those cases this was done by holding the next championship one year earlier. In 2012 the World Championships were shifted to even years to avoid interference with the 2013 World Games climbing event and to give a supplementary opportunity to demonstrate the sport for a possible integration into the 2020 Olympic Games. In 2019 the World Championships were again held one year early, to now allow the Championships to be the year before each Olympics to operate as a qualifier event.

Championships

Edition Year Location Date(s) Disciplines Athletes Nations Website Notes
EventPara
11991 Frankfurt1–2 October2XX---11022[4]
21993 Innsbruck29–30 April2XX---12723[5]
31995 Geneva5–6 May2XX---13524[6]
41997 Paris31 January–1 February2XX---15326[7]
51999 Birmingham2–3 December2XX---18030[8]
62001 Winterthur5–8 September3XXX--19825[9]
72003 Chamonix9–13 July3XXX--24134[10]
82005 Munich1–5 July3XXX--31851[11]
92007 Avilés17–23 September3XXX--30250[12]
102009 Xining30 June – 5 July4XXX--21944[13]
112011 Arco15–24 July4XXX-X37456[14]
122012 Paris12–16 September5XXXXX33156[15] [16]
132014 Munich21–23 August1--X--50952http://www.alpenverein.de/Wettkampf/Boulder-WCH/[17] [18]
Gijón8–14 September4XX-XXhttp://med.gijon.es/
142016 Paris14–18 September5XXXXX53353http://worldclimbing2016.com/en/[19] [20] [21]
152018 Innsbruck6–16 September5XXXXX83458http://www.innsbruck2018.com/[22] [23]
162019 Briançon16–17 July 1----X
Hachioji11–21 August4XXXX-25339https://jmsca-itadaki.com/s/n93w/[24] [25]
172021 Moscow15–21 September5XXXXX[26]
182023 Bern1–12 August5XXXXXhttps://bern2023.org/
192025 Seoul[27] 5XXXXX

Medals

As of 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships (excluding paraclimbing medals)

Note 1: share medals in 2007 IFSC Climbing World Championships

Note 2: one silver medal in 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships for Climbing Federation of Russia

Men's results

Lead

1991 François Legrand Yuji Hirayama
1993 François Legrand (2) Stefan Glowacz Yuji Hirayama
1995 François Legrand (3)
1997 François Petit Chris Sharma François Legrand
1999 Yuji Hirayama Maksym Petrenko
2001 Tomáš Mrázek François Petit
2003 Tomáš Mrázek Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza
2005 Tomáš Mrázek (2) Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza Alexandre Chabot
2007 Ramón Puigblanque Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza
Tomáš Mrázek
2009 Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza Adam Ondra David Lama
2011 Ramón Puigblanque (2) Jakob Schubert Adam Ondra
2012 Jakob Schubert Sean McColl Adam Ondra
2014 Adam Ondra Ramón Puigblanque Sachi Amma
2016 Adam Ondra (2) Jakob Schubert
2018 Jakob Schubert (2) Adam Ondra Alexander Megos
2019 Adam Ondra (3) Alexander Megos Jakob Schubert
2021 Jakob Schubert (3) Luka Potočar Hamish McArthur
2023 Jakob Schubert (4) Sorato Anraku

Speed

1991 Hans Florine
1993
1995
1997
1999 Alexey Gadeev
2001
2003 (2)
2005
2007
2009 (10 m) (2)
2009 (15 m)[28] (3) Ning Zhang
2011 (4) Danyil Boldyrev
2012 (5)
2014 Danyil Boldyrev Reza Alipour
2016 Marcin Dzieński Reza Alipour
2018 Reza Alipour Bassa Mawem
2019 Ludovico Fossali
2021 Danyil Boldyrev (2) Erik Noya Cardona Noah Bratschi
2023 Matteo Zurloni Long Jinbao Rahmad Adi Mulyono

Bouldering

2001 Christian Core
2003 Christian Core Jérôme Meyer
2005 Kilian Fischhuber
2007 Dmitri Sarafutdinov
2009 Alexey Rubtsov
2011 Dmitri Sarafutdinov (2) Adam Ondra
2012 Dmitri Sarafutdinov (3) Kilian Fischhuber
2014 Adam Ondra Jernej Kruder Jan Hojer
2016 Tomoa Narasaki Adam Ondra Manuel Cornu
2018 Kai Harada Jongwon Chon
2019 Tomoa Narasaki (2) Jakob Schubert Yannick Flohé
2021 Kokoro Fujii Tomoa Narasaki Manuel Cornu
2023 Mickael Mawem Mejdi Schalck Dohyun Lee

Combined

2012 Sean McColl
2014 Sean McColl (2) Jan Hojer
2016 Sean McColl (3) Manuel Cornu
2018 Jakob Schubert Adam Ondra Jan Hojer
2019 Tomoa Narasaki Jakob Schubert Rishat Khaibullin
2021 Yannick Flohé Philipp Martin Fedir Samoilov
2023 Jakob Schubert (2) Colin Duffy Tomoa Narasaki

Women's Results

Lead

1991 Isabelle Patissier Robyn Erbesfield
1993 (2) Robyn Erbesfield Isabelle Patissier
1995 Robyn Erbesfield Liv Sansoz
1997 Liv Sansoz Muriel Sarkany
1999 Liv Sansoz (2) Muriel Sarkany
2001 Muriel Sarkany
2003 Muriel Sarkany Sandrine Levet
2005 Angela Eiter Emily Harrington Akiyo Noguchi
2007 Angela Eiter (2) Muriel Sarkany Maja Vidmar
2009 Johanna Ernst Kim Ja-in Maja Vidmar
2011 Angela Eiter (3) Kim Ja-in
2012 Angela Eiter (4) Kim Ja-in Johanna Ernst
2014 Kim Ja-in Mina Markovič
2016 Janja Garnbret Anak Verhoeven Mina Markovič
2018 Jessica Pilz Janja Garnbret Kim Ja-in
2019 Janja Garnbret (2) Mia Krampl Ai Mori
2021 Seo Chae-hyun Natalia Grossman Laura Rogora
2023 Ai Mori Janja Garnbret Seo Chae-hyun

Speed

1991
1993
1995
1997 Tatiana Ruyga Irina Zaytseva
1999 Olga Zakharova
2001 Maya Piratinskaya Svetlana Sutkina
2003 (2) Tatiana Ruyga Valentina Yurina
2005 (3) Valentina Yurina
2007 Tatiana Ruyga (2) Valentina Yurina
2009 (10 m) He Cuilian He Cuifang Li Chunhua
2009 (15 m) He Cuilian (2) He Cuifang Li Chunhua
2011 Maria Krasavina Anna Tsyganova Tamara Kuznetsova
2012 Yulia Levochkina Iuliia Kaplina Natalia Titova
2014 Alina Gaidamakina Klaudia Buczek Aleksandra Rudzińska (later with last name: Mirosław)
2016 Anna Tsyganova Anouck Jaubert Iuliia Kaplina
2018 Aleksandra Mirosław Anna Brożek Maria Krasavina
2019 Aleksandra Mirosław (2) Di Niu Anouck Jaubert
2021 Natalia Kałucka Iuliia Kaplina Aleksandra Mirosław
2023 Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi Emma Hunt Aleksandra Mirosław

Bouldering

2001 Sandrine Levet
2003 Sandrine Levet
2005
2007 Anna Stöhr Akiyo Noguchi Olga Bibik
2009 Anna Stöhr
2011 Anna Stöhr (2) Sasha DiGiulian
2012 Anna Stöhr
2014 Alex Puccio Akiyo Noguchi
2016 Petra Klingler Miho Nonaka Akiyo Noguchi
2018 Janja Garnbret Akiyo Noguchi Staša Gejo
2019 Janja Garnbret (2) Akiyo Noguchi Shauna Coxsey
2021 Natalia Grossman Staša Gejo
2023 Janja Garnbret (3) Oriane Bertone Brooke Raboutou

Combined

2012 Kim Ja-in Petra Klingler
2014 Petra Klingler Mina Markovič
2016
2018 Janja Garnbret Jessica Pilz
2019 Janja Garnbret (2) Akiyo Noguchi Shauna Coxsey
2021 Jessica Pilz Mia Krampl Elnaz Rekabi
2023 Janja Garnbret (3) Jessica Pilz Ai Mori

See also

External links

See main article: world championships.

Notes and References

  1. Web site: Climbing Competitions' History . ifsc-climbing.org . 12 May 2013 . https://web.archive.org/web/20150924033224/http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/about-ifsc/what-is-the-ifsc/history . 24 September 2015 . dead.
  2. Web site: 2018 World Championships – Combined general result – Men. IFSC. 21 September 2018.
  3. Web site: 2018 World Championships – Combined general result – Women. IFSC. 21 September 2018.
  4. Web site: UIAA World Championship – Frankfurt 1991 . ifsc-climbing.org . 17 May 2013.
  5. Web site: UIAA World Championship – Innsbruck 1993 . ifsc-climbing.org . 17 May 2013.
  6. Web site: UIAA World Championship – Genève 1995 . ifsc-climbing.org . 17 May 2013.
  7. Web site: UIAA World Championship – Paris 1997 . ifsc-climbing.org . 17 May 2013.
  8. Web site: UIAA World Championship – Birmingham (GBR) 1999 . ifsc-climbing.org . 17 May 2013.
  9. Web site: UIAA World Championship – Winterthur (SUI) 2001 . ifsc-climbing.org . 17 May 2013.
  10. Web site: UIAA Worldchampionship – Chamonix (FRA) 2003 . ifsc-climbing.org . 17 May 2013.
  11. Web site: UIAA World Championship – Munich (GER) 2005 . ifsc-climbing.org . 17 May 2013.
  12. Web site: IFSC Climbing World Championship (L + B + S) – Aviles (ESP) 2007 . ifsc-climbing.org . 17 May 2013.
  13. Web site: IFSC Climbing World Championships – Qinghai (CHN) 2009 . ifsc-climbing.org . 17 May 2013.
  14. Web site: IFSC Climbing World Championships – Arco (ITA) 2011 . ifsc-climbing.org . 17 May 2013.
  15. Web site: IFSC Climbing World Championship – Paris (FRA) 2012 . ifsc-climbing.org . 17 May 2013.
  16. Web site: IFSC Climbing World Championship 2012 – Overall rankings . EGroupware@ifsc-climbing.org . 17 September 2018 . https://web.archive.org/web/20180917215403/http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/Editors/2012/R12_WM_LE.pdf . 17 September 2018 . live .
  17. Web site: World Championships.
  18. Web site: IFSC Climbing World Championship 2014 – Combined rankings . IFSC . 17 September 2018 . https://web.archive.org/web/20180918012101/https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/item/533-2014-combined-world-championship-medalists . 18 September 2018 . dead.
  19. Web site: IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016 . IFSC . 17 September 2018.
  20. Web site: IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016 – Overall rankings . IFSC . 17 September 2018 . https://web.archive.org/web/20170706061657/http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/media-centre/press-releases/2016_IFSC_Paris_Combined_Rankings_Men_Women_Formatted.pdf . 6 July 2017 . live .
  21. Web site: IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016 – Overall rankings . EGroupware@ifsc-climbing.org . 17 September 2018 . https://web.archive.org/web/20161019113151/http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/Editors/2016/R16_WM_PA.pdf . 19 October 2016 . live .
  22. Web site: IFSC Climbing World Championship 2018 . IFSC . 17 September 2018.
  23. Web site: IFSC Climbing World Championship 2018 – Combined results . IFSC . 17 September 2018.
  24. Web site: IFSC Climbing World Championships – Hachioji (JPN) 2019. ifsc-climbing.org. 25 August 2019.
  25. Web site: IFSC Climbing World Championships Combined – Hachioji (JPN) 2019. ifsc-climbing.org. 25 August 2019.
  26. Web site: 16 March 2019. IFSC Plenary Assembly 2019 – A full recap. 17 May 2019. IFSC.
  27. https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/908-2025-climbing-world-championships-to-be-held-in-seoul 2025 CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS TO BE HELD IN SEOUL
  28. Web site: IFSC Climbing World Championships – Qinghai (CHN) 2009 – 15 m Speed .