Round collar robe explained

The Round collar robe, also called and in China, (; pronounced as /ko/;) in Korea, was a style of, a Chinese robe, worn in ancient China, which was long enough to cover the entire body of its wearer.[1] The Chinese was developed under the influences of the worn by the and by the (including the Xianbei).[2] [3] [4] Depending on time period, the Chinese also had some traces of influences from the worn by the Sogdian.[5] The Chinese continued to evolve, developing distinctive Chinese characteristics with time and lost its connotation. It eventually became fully integrated in the system for the imperial and court dress attire. Under the influence of ancient China, the Chinese was adopted by the rest of the East Asian cultural sphere.

History

China

See main article: Yuanlingshan, Panling Lanshan and Hufu. The appearance of collars in, including those used in the round collar robe, occurred during the Eastern Han dynasty where clothing with round collars started to be used as an inner garment under the of the .[6]

Later on, the clothing customs of the Chinese were further influenced by the -style clothing with round collars and narrow sleeves used in the of the (including the people) during the Six dynasties period, when clothing with collar started to be worn as an outer-garment and could be used as a form of formal clothing.

A form of localized which was integrated with the traditional Chinese characteristics of the is the .[7] [8]

By the Tang dynasty, the became a formal attire which was typically worn by men although it also became fashionable for women to wear it in some dynasties, such as in the Tang dynasty. During the Tang dynasty, under the influence of the Sogdians, the could be transformed into a .

Korea

In Korea, round collared hanbok was worn with roots in hobok and Goguryeo murals show that it was worn often as an inner garment. The official court uniform called danryeong was introduced from Tang dynasty by Kim Chun-chu in the second year of Queen Jindeok's rule. Since then, it has been worn as an official outfit for government officials until the end of Joseon. It originated from the Chinese' round collar robe.[9] At first, the danryeong collar was circular, similar to the Chinese round collar robe but later localized into a uniquely Korean U-shaped collar also seen in the Won-sam.

Danryeong is used as a type of Gwanbok.[10] Sometimes it is worn together with the dapho.

In late Joseon, under the 1884 decree of King Gojong, only black-coloured danryeong were permitted to be worn by court officials.[11]

Japan

See main article: Sokutai.

See also

Notes and References

  1. Wang . Xinyi . Colbert . François . Legoux . Renaud . 2020 . From Niche Interest to Fashion Trend: Hanfu Clothing as a Rising Industry in China . International Journal of Arts Management . 23 . 1 . 1 February 2021.
  2. Yang . Shuran . Yue . Li . Wang . Xiaogang . 2021-08-01 . Study on the structure and virtual model of "xiezhi" gown in Ming dynasty . Journal of Physics: Conference Series . 1986 . 1 . 012116 . 10.1088/1742-6596/1986/1/012116 . 2021JPhCS1986a2116Y . 1742-6588 . 236985886. free .
  3. Book: Dien, Albert E. . Six dynasties civilization . 2007 . Yale University Press . 978-0-300-07404-8 . New Haven, Conn. . 72868060.
  4. Book: Migration and membership regimes in global and historical perspective : an introduction . 2013 . Brill . Ulbe Bosma, Kh Kessler, Leo Lucassen . 978-90-04-25115-1 . Leiden . 857803189.
  5. Zhao . Qiwang . 2020 . Western Cultural Factors in Robes of Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties as Well as Sui and Tang Dynasties . 2020 3rd International Conference on Arts, Linguistics, Literature and Humanities (ICALLH 2020) . Francis Academic Press, UK . 141–147 . 10.25236/icallh.2020.025 . 31 January 2024.
  6. Book: Wang, Fang . Proceedings of the 2nd International Conference on Economics and Management, Education, Humanities and Social Sciences (EMEHSS 2018) . Study on Structure and Craft of Traditional Costumes of Edge . 2018 . https://www.atlantis-press.com/proceedings/emehss-18/25891885 . en . Atlantis Press . 584–588 . 10.2991/emehss-18.2018.118 . 978-94-6252-476-7. free .
  7. Web site: 2020-11-28 . Chinese Traditional Costume - Lanshan for Scholars - 2022 . 2022-05-18 . www.newhanfu.com . en-US.
  8. 유혜영 . 1992 . 돈황석굴벽화에 보이는 일반복식의 연구 . 이화여자대학교 대학원 . Doctoral Thesis .
  9. Book: Fashion, identity, and power in modern Asia. 2018. Springer. Kyunghee Pyun, Aida Yuen Wong. 978-3-319-97199-5. Cham, Switzerland. 116. 1059514121.
  10. Nam. Min-yi. Han. Myung-Sook. 2000. A Study on the Items and Shapes of Korean Shrouds. The International Journal of Costume Culture. 3. 2. 100–123.
  11. Book: Pyun. Kyunghee. Fashion, identity, and power in modern Asia. Wong. Aida Yuen. 2018. Springer. 978-3-319-97199-5. Cham, Switzerland. 1059514121.